just more climbing

about an hour and half of forerunning new problems in the 0 to 5 range, then the real training

7 goes V2 - 6 moves on face
7 goes V2 - 8 moves on face
7 goes V5 - 7 moves on face
7 goes V2 - 11 moves on face
7 goes V1 - 7 moves on face

sandwiched in there was barbell getup and external rotation work
did 75lb x 5L/4R then decided to switch to get up situp sets of 3/3 75lb
all ext rot work was w/ 30lb for sets of 5/5

also did 10 minutes of 4 reps every minute LCCJ w/ 40kg

climbin fake rocks

Gotten in a couple of days of climbing back in the gym, the weather was good for outside but it just wasn't in the cards...such is life...

Barbell getups 65lb x 2/2, 85 x 1/1, 95lb x 1/1
external rot 30lb x 5/5,5/5,5/5
wrist ext x 30,30,30

each round mixed between:
5 rounds V3
5 rounds V4
5 rounds v3

Then today was unusual. I spent more time at the gym than i can remember...5 hours of climbing. It wasn't non stop but it was consistent. I mixed in the usual prehab exercises...
BGU 65 x 2/2, 85 x 1/1/1/1, 95 x 1/1/1/1, 105 x 1/1, 1/1, 95 x 1/1
ER 30 x 8/8, 8/8, 8/8, 8/8, 8/8, 8/8
WE 35lb->20lb x 10->20 x 6

warm up of V1-V4 total of about 9 routes
-worked a 6 on face with a psuedo blind throw off crimps, 6 moves, sent after 9-10 goes
-repeated a 7 less then 5 goes, 6 moves on overhang
-worked an 8 got to last move
-worked a 6
-worked the 8 again
-worked a 6

plus a bit of spazzing and campusing here and there...

I really need to work on my willingness to throw to a good hold of bad feet or foot and crimps...it seems to need some work, i'm not sure if it was due to climbing with glasses or what...
The limiting factor today seemed to be skin. Even at the end I was still doing well with the 6 strength wise but fingertips are weepy. Overall a good day and need to do a deload on tues.

Training updates

Nothing especially exciting but I noticed I'm getting behind again on writing. so here's what I've been up to...

Following my last day of climbing I ended up climbing 2 more days in a row, it wasn't intentional but it happened that way, did some vertical nice and easy...

2 5.9's, 2 other 5.9's, 5.9 and 5.10, 2 5.11's

the next day it was working some problems to test them out prior to the comp did up to V7.

Intermixed there was also:

Deadlifts 225 x 5,4, 275 x 3,2, 325 x 1
Pistols 12kg x 5,4,3,2,1
Presses 24kg x 5,4,3,2,1
Pullups 12kg x 5,4,3,2,1

Deadlifts 245 x 5, 255 x 4, 265 x 3, 275 x 2, 285 x 1
Presses 28kg x 5, 4, 32 x 3,2,1
Pistols 16kg x 5,4,3,2,1
Pullups 20kg x 5,4,3,2,1

Then yesterday V0, V1,V2,V3, V5, V7 (took 3 tries due to a low percentage move), V3, V2, V4, V5, V6, V1, V2 with Barbell Getups and single arm external rotation plate curls and wrist extension work mixed in.

Been playing with my grippers again since the finger's doing well as well as some other grip work. Managed to close my hard #2 with two fingers, about 2 dimes off of my hard #3, been able to start tearing cards again and have done a couple of phone books here and there. It feels good to be doing some grip work again. I'd like to get my card tearing back to where it was and add in some bending again.

Cold Temps + Rest + Motivation = PR!

Yesterday was incredible, forget the fact that I was able to get outside and climb on a tuesday of all days, and the rain that was forecasted never showed, and had everyplace we went all to ourselves...I was the fact that yesterday was the breakthrough of a new grade I've been working/waiting for. I did my first V7, a short powerful problem called Raw Meat. I got it within 5-10 goes. On top of that it required me to throw to a hold with my right hand and use the fingers that I've been letting heal up. Then later on I got my second V7, croaker's crack, in about the same number of tries at a different area called lost cove. The best part is that neither of them were that bad. It had a pretty scary topout but I don't think that I even thought about it until I was at the top and it was done. I also got to scope out some projects that may go this season but we'll have to see. Needless to say I'm still really pumped especially since it had no negative effects on my fingers. I'm going to keep moving forward with my training especially since it keeps me on track and holds me accountable. I have a lot of processing to do in relation to yesterday.

A couple more workouts

Friday -
Getups 32kg 4/4
Single LC 32kg 8/8 followed by 30sec hold
FSQ Rack position 32kg 13/13
Snatch 32kg 7/7

Repeat with 28kg


Saturday -
Easy climbing on top rope.
4 5.9's
2 5.10's
1 5.11
Worked a 5.12

Barbell Getup 65lb x 1/1, 75 x 1/1, 95 x 1/1
External Rotation 2 sets of 8/8 with 30lb


Sunday -
5,4,3,2,1 of

Pistol 12kg, 16, 16, 20, 20
Press 28, 28, 28, 32, 32
Deadlift 255, 265, 275, 285, 290
pull up 16, 20, 24, 28, 32

messed around with some bodyweight circuits I was designing for a client afterwards.

Training

Taking a small break from long cycle to work on strength for the next 3 weeks before returning to the business.

5->4->3->2->1 of pullups, deadlifts, presses, deadlifts

DL 5 x 245, 4 x 245, 3 x 255, 2 x 265, 1 x 265
Press 24kg x 5/5, 28 x 4/4, 28 x 3/3, 32 x 2/2, 32 x 1/1
Pistol 12kg x 5/5, 12 x 4/4, 16 x 3/3, 16 x 2/2, 16 x 1/1
Pullup 16kg x 5, 16 x 4, 24 x 3, 24 x 2, 32 x 1

Climbing's felt a little off since hitting the long cycle pr but it's coming back and I should be fully recovered and able to refocus efforts soon.

Geoff gave me some tips on my deadlift and I have a new setup method. It's great being around knowledgable people.

Just another weaknight...

Well not quite a 'weak'night but it could have been. The first step toward a far off goal came to fruition...100 reps of long cycle clean and jerk with 2 16kg kettlebells. Yes it's not the most manly weights to use but the goal was to get a total workload equal to MS status for my weight with the 32kilos and that is done and done. Next up will be working with the 20's or 24's, most likely the 24's but it's not a certainly...24's mean single arm with the 48kg while 20's mean single arm with the 40kg...decisions, decisions...

Previous best with the 16's was 62 reps (+/- 1, not sure, i have to check), once i got to 63, I told myself I'd do at least 70, once to 70 I told myself I can do 80, every rep done past that was done solely to avoid having to ever do this many reps again...the thought of getting that close and not finishing had more dire consequences than having to subject myself to this special kind of hell...i mean fun, yeah that's right, fun...was not a possibility. I chose long cycle because it's easy on the skin but not on the mind, you either do the reps or quit, it's that simple. So much of me wanted to quit but today it wasn't in the cards and I feel better for it. I will take this tenacity and apply it to climbing. When I want to quit, I won't. I've proven again to myself that the desire to quit does not mean that you have to, it means you want to take the easy way out. The easy path is well trodden but there's so much fun to forging your own way and each step is a victory in it unto itself. The highest I need to go next time is 67 reps with the 24's or 80 reps with the 20's, since that keeps the total load constant. But whatever it is, it is less than 100 reps and that's all that matters to me since volume has always been the bane of my existence. I'd rather make things harder than do more.

Well I'm off to do a little happy dance/pass out and recover.