For some reason I can't seem to get into regular blogging, but the only way to do it is to do it, so here I am again. I've been busy, been training well, and making progress on a lot of my miscellaneous projects. So in no particular order, not that you'd expect much different from an ADHD mind like mine...
It's the start of the climbing season and it's going well, the last two times I've made it outside to climb I've fired off 3 V5's in a handful of goes, and 3 V6's in less than 5 goes each and now after this last week in Boone (beautiful weather by the way and incredible leaf changes up there) I have 3 V7's and an V8 to work on. The biggest thing is making sure these stupid A2 pulleys get back up to snuff. In the beginning of the year I ripped my right ring finger pulley and shortly after letting that heal the middle finger one partially tore too...so now that they're on the way the goal is to make sure that I don't do something stupid and get set back again...I'm slowly getting back to where I want to be/where I used to be...back a couple of years ago I was getting pretty respectable I sent a couple of V8's and V9's in a competition but when it comes to outside i was never able to do as well, but now I'm seeing things come together well. I can see the path ahead and as long as I'm smart about things I should have my best season ever outside. Spending time outside has given me a lot of ideas about addressing how to train for climbing that I'm looking forward to implementing. The hardest part is going to be to sticking to the plan and not getting sidetracked due to excitement. One of the hardest things with climbing is breaking away from the traditional training format. Cycling load and intensity is virtually non existent. It's push hard and try and try until you do it then find something new and repeat. Common sense dictates after you ramp up to a personal best you go back and build back up, in powerlifting you might take months to build back up, in climbing it's more like minutes or hours....and people wonder why climbing causes so many injuries....so no that i've unexpectedly hit several pr's in the last two weeks I'm stuck with the decision of deciding if i'm really at a peak and it's time to start back over or if it's just a bonus along the way...i'm not super psyched but i'm going to stick with the former....it's just not worth potentially reinjuring something....So with that in mind my current climbing plan is to work on increasing volume with technique....the last workout was 10 repeats of a V0 with a minute of rest after each go with the goal of each send being smoother than the last, I then switched to a different one and did the same thing, before each grouping I did some wrist, extensor, and rotator cuff work, I felt great after I was done and I'll add in another problem to increase the volume next time, I'll add more until I'm up to 50 total sends and then back off and change up things. I'll continue sandwiching prehab work in between and then I'll reevaluate in about 3 weeks ( as that seems to be as long as I can deal with any cycle) Additionally I'm working in some long cycle with the kettlebells with the goal of getting back to some respectable numbers with out adding the amount weight that I added the last time I did this. That's it for now...
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4 comments:
glad to see you back online. Impressive work on your climbing progress. V6-7 is no joke. As for your rotator cuff work, Gray Cook recommends training the RC with compression and distraction exercises such as your get ups, overhead walks and farmer's walk. Secrets of the Shoulder DVD by Gray and Brett Jones is great if you haven't checked it out yet.
Respite in tow, nice blog. Explicating in order to break down understanding taking mini small benchmarks towards something...more to gain..
I wonder why outside was comparably more difficult, initially.
And currently, it is not, so. What deemed the difference. Weather?
Re: The Plan, which has yet to be a finger tip close, away, I have experience climbing the small rock, Stone Mountain. I only relented because I took my rain bike traverse the roads most traveled by the Big Ones in preparation of What To Come.
But back to the Stone. Yeh, it was challenging, ropes in tow, experienced males to buffer any falls and or anxiety; My knees bloodied, grasping for dear angry life. Unable to figure the problem. Only able to wither in staid position and wait until wait was met with external coaxing and advice of not my own. Climbing suxs to the max and to the too much that I would rather kill myself flying downhill at 37 mph on an old Pinarello or Colagno..
You speak of peaking. The red-stained mountain shows the effort.
The rops that held my life negated and delusions I had of peaking at the right time in space.
I like that whatever block interfered with earlier absence of blogging has but diminsh ed. Writer's block is an old-age rock, hard to barter with any strategy.
p.j. - thanks for the recommendation on the secrets dvd, sounds like I'm on the right track, I'm going to have to wait to buy any new information, it's a problem to like learning so much, I've thrown the long cycle in to address the overhead support and the downward pull of distraction
Hannah - If i can decipher your writing...I think outside is always more challenging due to a degree of freedom issue, inside is more 2D outside is more 3D and complexity usually confounds...I'd write more but i need to digest the prose some...
Ok, I'll leave the jargon alone.
Have heard language & knowledge, is similar to the art of climbing magnificent boulders. Huge, grand or small.
#1.) PURITY.
(Informational scripted text,leave out. Superfluous accessories like articles, explicits, adverb clauses,etc.);
It's you. Your hands. The face of the rock. The quiet, supportive in-motion and in-trust ed belayers?) The tactile twined ropes, and other elements, known or unknown.
# 2.)SOLITUDE (or nay)
in nature.Implicit in design
Climbing for a prime reason. The Quest, to choose any method known or to fake until one makes. Wisdom emits. Shared diverse dly, but his own to empower manifests then traverses.
#3.) Mindful Meditation: Courage. Your formula.
Ready and available for his imagination of the problem before. It is you, your finger tips imagination, skill. and muscle memory as a resource.
If you read prose, art, directions, bios and/or words only once through to gauge the impulsive assent or the scan, a switch to the other side, the problem changes.
Doubt creeps in.It becomes available. In the form of needless interpretation other than your own.
Your plan feels marvelous and thanks for calling mine prose.
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